The most commonly presented avian emergency is that of the critically ill bird. Most often these are birds are found on the bottom of the cage with little if any history of prior signs of illness. The symptoms, visual examination, and initial diagnostics will often establish the direction of treatment and specific diagnostic tests. The following are common problems grouped by system. The patient that presents with only depressed mentation, and severe dehydration must be pursued aggressively until some clue is found to justify its condition. A diagnosis for the birds state of decompensation gives the patient the greatest chances for survival.

Hypocalcemia syndrome

African Grey parrots (Psittacidae), both Timneh and Congo sub-species, are rarely affected by a hypoglycemia syndrome (although there appears to be a decrease in it’s frequency in our practice, perhaps due to increased awareness of nutritional needs). Young birds 2 to 5 years of age are most commonly effected. Signs may range from incoordination to status epilepticus. Hypocalcemia should be on the differential diagnosis of any grey parrot with neurological signs. Grey parrots (Psittacidae) presented in seizure should be treated presumptively with intravenous calcium gluconate as well as with diazepam.

Respiratory emergencies

Difficulty breathing is a common complaint in birds presented for emergency or critical care. After administering oxygen or establishing an airway and adequate ventilation, a thorough evaluation of the animals respiratory tract must be performed to determine the cause of the problem. Character of respiration may be helpful in making a diagnosis and appropriate treatment. Primary pulmonary disease (pneumonia, pulmonary congestion or hemorrhage), upper airway obstruction and abdominal disease that interferes with the filling of air sacs may all present as respiratory distress.

Pulmonary disease may result from a variety of causes including heart disease, fungal, bacterial, viral and parasitic pneumonia or pneumonitis, and airborne toxins. Symptomatic treatment should include oxygen, antibiotics, and other supportive therapy such as diuretics. The use of bronchodialators and corticosteroid are controversial. Nebulization of medication and or humidification will benefit some patients.

Upper airway obstructions are common avian emergencies. Inhaled foreign bodies (e.g., millet seeds inhaled by cockatiels), fungal and bacterial granuloma at the syrinx and glottal papillomas may result in near total to total obstruction. These patients present with a history of acute onset of dyspnea, often with no previous sign of disease. Initial evaluation of respiration may show open mouth breathing, inspiratory and/or expiratory stridor, very often with a musical squeak-like respiratory sounds originating at the glottis or syrinx combined with cyanosis are suggestive of upper airway obstruction. The cyanosis and signs of distress may become evident with any stress or restraint. The decision of what point to intercede and intubate the air sac should be based on whether the patient can tolerate diagnostic and therapeutic care without becoming cyanosis. If cyanosis with or without restraint, intubation should be considered.

Bleeding and blood loss

The sight of blood strikes fear in all bird owners and is a common emergency presentation. Hemorrhage may result from numerous causes including trauma, infectious disease, metabolic and nutritional causes, and neoplasia. Trauma is the most common cause of hemorrhage. The majority of the birds bleeding due to minor trauma can be easily treated. Bleeding blood feathers, fractured or avulsed toenails and beaks, and traumatized wing tips make up the majority of these cases. Bleeding blood feathers must be pulled. Even if the bleeding has stopped, it may resume if the tip of the growing feather brushes a perch, or is groomed by the bird. If the feather appears to be gone but continues to bleed, look or palpate for a remnant of the feather shaft in the follicle (BE GENTLE!). Once the feather is pulled do not put hemostatic agents in the follicle! The bleeding will usually stop if the follicle is pinched closed for 60-90 seconds. If the hemorrhage continues try gluing the follicle closed with a drop of tissue cement in the opening of the feather follicle. Bleeding toenails may be cauterized with a mild styptic such as ferric sub-sulfate or the quick may be covered with a thin layer of tissue cement. Broken beaks are occasionally difficult to stop bleeding. This is particularly true with slab-type fractures of the tip of the upper beak or rhinotheca (common with cockatoos and African Grey parrots (Psittacidae). These fractures may be difficult to diagnosis due to blood spreading from the tip of the beak to the tongue, giving the appearance that the origin of the hemorrhage is elsewhere in the oral cavity. The bleeding will often stop if the broken surface is filed or ground smooth. This also appears to make the broken tip less irritating to the bird. The tip of the beak may be cauterized with hemostatic powder if needed.

Hemorrhage secondary to more significant trauma, such as lacerations of major vessels, hematoma, or fracture of the liver, spleen or kidney is immediately life threatening. The first goal is to recognize the hemorrhage. This is not a problem when trauma results in external hemorrhage. The greater challenge is to recognize internal blood loss. The hemorrhage must be slowed or stopped and restorative therapy initiated in order to prevent the bird from bleeding out and support vital organ function. The rate that blood is lost from the circulation is the determining factor in its mortality. Losing 20% to 25% blood volume over several minutes may be fatal where the same volume lost over several hours is not. Generalized clinical signs of blood loss include pallor of skin, nails and mucous membranes, delayed capillary refill time, increased cardiac and respiratory rates, thin appearance to blood visible in peripheral veins (median ulnar and jugular), generalized weakness, fear, and dyspnea, especially with restraint. More specific signs of hemorrhage depend on the location of the hemorrhage but may include bruising, distention and/or discoloration of the abdomen, and coolness of isolated limbs.

Timely diagnosis may make the difference between life and death in these cases and should be aggressively pursued. If hemorrhage is unapparent in an animal with a history of recent trauma, serous ongoing internal hemorrhage should be assumed to be ongoing until proven otherwise the patient should be hospitalized for several hours for observation.3 External hemorrhage is not difficult to diagnose. Volume of blood loss may be estimated with the aid of history, blood on the cage or carrier floor papers or in the materials used to wrap the patient prior to presentation. Diagnosis and/or assessment of blood volume loss is much more difficult with internal hemorrhage. Patients presented with a history of trauma along with signs of hypovolemia or hypotension should be assumed to have sustained internal hemorrhage. Hemorrhage into the bird’s abdomen and into bone and muscle compartments are the most common in the authors experience. Discoloration or bruising of the abdominal wall, especially along the ventral midline and caudal on the ventral abdomen, may give a clue to hemorrhage. Radiology and endoscopy may aid in locating the site. Removing the feathers from a traumatized limb or the trunk area may aid in locating hemorrhage in those locations. Bruised or swollen areas should be evaluated for an increase in the size of the swelling or diameter of the limb. Definitive location of internal hemorrhage may require exploratory surgery.

These cases must be treated by a veterinarian, preferable one familiar with avian patients. Treatment must be initiated early and progress rapidly if the patient with significant hemorrhage is to survive. Direct pressure should be applied in those situations where it will not interfere with respiration. Clamp or suture vessels that are readily accessible. In some cases, the application of elastic bandage wraps to produce counterpressure to pelvic limbs may be possible to increase systemic vascular resistance and venous return to the heart. The resulting influx of blood acts as an “autotransfussion” of blood pooled in the limbs. The degree of stress created by wrapping the limbs must be weighed against the benefits of increasing blood pressure. Counterpressure pneumatic “garments” are not available for avian patients and counterpressure may not be applied to the abdomen to avian trauma patients due to their need to expand abdominal air sacs for respiration. An intraosseous or intravenous catheter should be placed for the rapid administration of fluids to restore systemic pressures. Whole blood, plasma, colloid plasma expanders, hypertonic (7.5%) saline or crystalloid solutions have been recommended. Fluids should be continued until systemic pressures are at or slightly greater than normal. The single heterologous blood transfusion has been shown to be safe and anecdotally demonstrated to be efficacious.30,31 Studies of radio-labeled (51Cr) red blood cells administered as either homologous or heterologous transfusions have suggested the half-life of the transfused cells to be substantially shorter than previously thought. These studies imply that heterologous transfusions (blood from different species) may be of little or no benefit and homologous transfusions (from a bird of the same species) of only limited benefit.

Anemia

As with bleeding, a bird presented with signs of anemia must first be evaluated to determine the cause of the anemia, the degree of blood loss as well as the site or the reason new cells are not being produced. Gastrointestinal bleeding, genitourinary bleeding along with hemolysis may be difficult to diagnosis. Hematochezia (red blood in the stool), typically from lesions in the lower GI tract, and melena (black tar-like digested blood), associated with gastritis, enteritis and ulcers of the gastrointestinal tract, GI foreign bodies, primary and secondary coagulopathies and hepatopathies. Cloacal bleeding may be associated with severe cloacitis, cloacal or uterine prolapses, papillomas, and other cloacal masses, and egg laying. Heavy metal poisoning (see lead or zinc poisoning) and chlamydiosis may result in hemolysis or bone marrow depression anemia.

Bite Wounds

Scratches and bite wounds very often lead to a fatal septicemia if not treated aggressively. The patient should be evaluated for its overall condition and treated appropriately for blood loss or hypotension. The extent of wounds should be evaluated. If the patient’s condition allows, wounds should be thoroughly flushed and fractures stabilized. Aggressive antibiotics should be begun early in treatment. Piperacillin or cefotaxime combined with amikacin or tobramycin are a good choice and should be continued for a minimum of 5 days is indicated in these cases. If septicemia is suspected treatment for septic shock should be instituted (intravenous fluids, rapid acting steroids, and intravenous bactericidal antibiotics).

Fractures

Fractures should be splinted as soon as the birds condition is stable to prevent further complication. Simple bandaging techniques may be employed to provide adequate stabilization until definitive treatment is possible. Fractures of the distal wing, including the radius and ulna, carpus, and manus, may be immobilized with a figure-8 bandage. Humeral fractures, shoulder luxation and fractures of the shoulder girdle should be splinted to the birds body utilizing a figure-8 bandage followed by wrapping the limb to the body in such a manner as to support the limb but not restrict respiration or interfere with the birds legs. The opposing wing should be left out of the wrap. Fractures of the leg below the stifle may be immobilized with an Altman tape bandage or a modified Robert Jones bandage with or without an acrylic half cast. Fractures of the femur require a Spica splint if they are to be splinted externally until surgical repair can be accomplished. See chapter TT on Hospital techniques.

Burns

Burns are not uncommon in avian medicine. Most common burns result from contact with hot liquids, water (scalds) or cooking oil, electrical burns from chewing on electrical wires and from being fed hot formula in pre-weaning bird. Burns resulting from entrapment in burning buildings or inside containers (chick incubators with burning bedding) are not as common but are much more difficult to treat with the complication of smoke inhalation.

The burns of avian patients may be classified by their severity, superficial, partial thickness and full thickness burns. Superficial burns, where only epidermis is effected, resulting in transient erythema and desquamation of epidermis and the site is highly sensitive or hyperesthetic. Clinical signs include hyperemia, desquamation, and pain. Partial thickness burns are those where the burn depth extends to the mid-dermis. Loss of epidermis is complete, capillaries and venule in the dermis are dilated, and congested, and they exude plasma. The site may be painful (especially feet, legs and facial skin), but sensitivity is decreased. Clinical signs include exudation, pain and decreased sensitivity. Change in ease of feather pulling (as noted with hair in mammals) may not be effected due to the depth of the feather follicle. Full thickness burns, result coagulation of epidermis and dermis so that they are no longer vital. Severe edema of the subcutis develops from the increased permeability of deep vessels and necrosis of the damaged tissues occurs, resulting in dry, leathery eschar. Feathers may be easily pulled if the burn is deep and scaled skin may peel easily. Clinical signs include necrotic tissue without sensation, subcutaneous edema, little or no pain and feathers that are easily pulled. Other signs of burns may include respiratory signs from smoke inhalation and carbon monoxide poisoning, hypovolemia and hypotension (“shock”) may be present in animals with severe burns, dehydration from loss of fluids, anorexia, and polyuria secondary to stress or inability to eat in the case of crop burns.

Diagnosis is typically made based on history and clinical signs. Smoke exposure should be expected in situations where smoke accompanied the burn, especially in an enclosed space or involved materials with a likelihood of producing toxic fumes. A through physical examination may revel the involvement of other organs. If greater than 50% of the body surface is involved in the burn with partial or full thickness burns the prognosis is grave and the client may want to, consider euthanasia. It is important to advise the client that the condition of the patient may become much worse before it improves. Look for signs of hypovolemia or hypotension. Evaluate for signs of infection and pain. Diagnostics testing should include radiographs, in cases exposed to smoke, to evaluate pulmonary injury. Hemogram, serum electrolytes are indicated in severe or extensive burns.
Initial observation and evaluation should include evaluation to determine the level of therapy required for the extent and depth of the burn. Birds with severe or extensive burns need emergency treatment. Dyspneic birds often have laryngeal edema and upper airway excretions benefit from an air sac tube and oxygen. An intraosseous catheter should be placed and the bird treated for shock. An initial bolus of fluids using Lactated Ringer’s solution or some other balanced crystalloid electrolyte solution. A short-acting glucocorticosteroids such as hydrocortisone Na succinate or Prednisolone Na succinate may be given. Systemic bactericidal antibiotics, such as Piperacillin, should be initiated in patients with severe burns that may complicated by infection or any burn that will not be treated in the hospital environment.

If the burn is recent, treating the site with cold water or compresses to minimize coagulation and minimize the extent of the burn and decrease the burn depth by dissipating heat. Continue cold compresses period of 20-30 minutes after the time of the burn. Body temperature must be monitored during this procedure, especially in very small patients. Superficial burns should be gently cleansed using saline with 5% povidone iodine (Betadine) or chlorhexadine (Nolvasan, ) solution. Partial and Full thickness burns should be gently cleansed and necrotic tissue and any foreign material removed daily then treated topically with a water soluble antibiotic dressing such as silver sulfadiazine. The lesions may be covered with a sterile dressing or left uncovered based on the likelihood of contamination and injury by the patient. This procedure is very painful and should be performed under general anesthesia. Early surgical intervention may shorten the course of therapy of some small partial and full thickness burns.

Burned birds should be monitored for blood loss and loss of body proteins. Plasma or colloidal fluids may be required in patients where total solids and hence osmolality drops below 1.0 g/dL. Renal function should be monitored by number of droppings and urine volume, uric acid and serum electrolytes. Continued fluids and judicious use of diuretics is indicated in birds with decreased urine output. White blood cell counts are commonly increase within 24 to 48 hours and persist for 5 to 10 days (in the authors experience). Pain medications (analgesics) are indicated in cases where the bird is in pain (see above).

Complications most likely to occur include circulatory collapse, decreased renal function (oliguria), renal failure and sepsis. Circulatory and renal complications are most likely to occur within the first 24 to 48 hours. This emphasizes the need to monitor hydration (PCV and TS) and renal function (uric acid, electrolytes and urinalysis). Infection is a common cause of death in birds surviving the initial injury. The most common agents cultured from the burns of avian patients has not been reported but is assumed to be the same opportunists that infect the burns of mammals, Pseudomonas, Streptococcus, Proteus and Candida. Prevention of burn sepsis involves early wound cleansing and closure when indicated; topical antibiotics, isolation of the patient in a clean, or if possible sterile, environment and maintaining sterility of the burn site. It is similarly important to monitor the patient’s WBC and note any discharge or odor from the lesion. Wet dressings should be changed often using sterile technique and early initiation of parental antibiotics if evidence of infection develops. Other potential complications include pneumonia, complications of scaring or difficulties of healing, especially in areas where tissues move.

Crop burns

Crop (thermal) burns in young birds and chemical burns in adult birds are not unlike other burns. Superficial burns may result in the chick refusing food and lead to secondary bacterial and fungal (yeast) infections. Partial thickness and full thickness burns may be identified early by edema of the tissue overlying the crop. Many partial thickness burns will result in the formation of an eschar that will later open to a fistula. Full thickness burns may result in the death of the chick. Partial and full thickness crop burns should be treated as any other burn.

Poisonings

Poisonings are not common presentations in avian emergency medicine, but do occur and involve a wide assortment of toxins. In principal the treatment of poisonings in birds are same as for other animals. That is treat the patient, not the toxin.31,32 The patient presented with abnormal clinical signs should first be stabilized, an airway established, and respiration initiated if necessary. Cardiovascular needs should be addressed. In general, fluids should be administrated to maintain circulatory volume and pressure and support renal function. Seizures or other problems involving the central nervous system should be addressed, and body systems and general metabolism supported. Further exposure should be prevented and further absorption prevented or delayed. Soiled birds should be bathed, crops may be lavage and absorbent or cathartics administered. Specific antagonists or antidotes are available for a few toxins and should be used in those instances when a safe dosage is known. Lastly treatments that may facilitate the removal of the toxin, such as diuresis, should be instigated.
Zinc and Lead Poisoning / Heavy Metal Toxicity

Heavy metal toxicity is the most common form of poisoning reported in avian medicine. Lead is ubiquitous in the environment, and psittacine birds (parrots (Psittacidae) seem to be attracted by the malleable nature of the metal. Common sources of lead exposure in pet and aviary birds include: curtain weights, leaded glass lamps and windows, fishing weights and lead shot, lead solder in electronic appliances and costume jewelry, lead foil from wine bottles, lead in paint, putty and caulking products and linoleum. Some large cities with old water systems may have high levels of lead in the drinking water that may lead to accumulated lead toxicity. Sources of zinc include: Galvanized cage wire, staples and nails and food containers, zinc containing products such as zinc oxide and US pennies. Other metal toxicities reported in birds include copper, iron, mercury and arsenic.32

Lead Poisoning

Lead is a systemic, heavy metal poisoning that adversely effects every body system to which it is distributed. Abnormalities and clinical signs may vary with species, and dose and duration of exposure. Signs may be vague and nonspecific causing lead poisoning to be added to many lists of differential diagnosis. Neurologic, hematopoietic, gastrointestinal, renal and immunological systems are most often involved. Central and peripheral nervous system signs include dull or poorly responsive mentation, wing droop, incoordination, muscle twitches and seizures. Central nervous signs are the result of perivascular edema, increase in cerebrospinal fluid, necrosis of nerves, and changes in neuronal metabolism. Peripheral neuropathy results from competition for calcium at neuronal junctions acutely and in more chronic cases, lead induced demyelination.34 Frequently symptoms are associated with the central nervous system. Incoordination, poor balance, muscle twitches or fasciculation, and (occasionally) seizures may result. Many of the clinical signs and laboratory findings result from lead damage to red blood cells leading to premature destruction. The anemia, polychromasia and anisocytosis is secondary to disruption of the formation of heme. The premature destruction of RBC’s results in biliverdinuria (yellow-green to green-black coloration of urine and urate). In amazon parrots (Psittacidae), and occasionally other species, hemoglobinuria which presents as a classic “chocolate milk”-to-blood colored dropping, may occur.35 With or without CNS signs lead should be suspected in these patients. Many birds with lead toxicity are polyuric. Polyuria results from renal tubular damage caused by both the lead and hemoglobin. Gastrointestinal signs include anorexia, regurgitation, gastrointestinal stasis or ileus including proventricular dilatation. Gastrointestinal signs are the result of both local effects of the lead on the gastrointestinal tract and neurological pathology.

Radiography may or may not show metal in the ventriculus or elsewhere in the gastrointestinal tract. Other changes may be those related to ileus. Laboratory changes hematological effects of lead include mild-to-severe anemia, changes in red cell morphology, including margination of hemoglobin, polychromasia, hypochromasia, and anisocytosis. See chapter HH on hematology. Serum chemistries may show elevations of LDH, AST, CPK and uric acid. Blood lead levels greater than 20 ?g/dL (0.20 ppm) is suggestive of lead toxicity, levels greater than 50 ?g/dL are diagnostic. Delta-amino levulonic acid dehydratase (ALAD) is inhibited by lead. ALAD levels have been used to diagnose lead toxicity in waterfowl and occasionally in cage birds. See chapter on Toxicology.

Initial therapy consists of supportive therapy along with chelation. Supportive fluids SQ, IV or IO, depending on the degree of dehydration and volume of polyuria, thermal support, anti-seizure medication if needed, make up the supportive care. Chelation of circulating lead forms nontoxic complexes that are excreted in the bile or by the kidneys. Removal of circulating lead leads to equilibration of lead from tissue and bone for further chelation. Calcium disodium versonate (CaEDTA) is the treatment of choice for initial therapy.32,35 D-penicillamine (PA) may be added to the therapy and has the advantage of oral administration.32, 36

Other therapeutics, Diethylene triamine pentaacetic acid (DTPA) and Dimercaptosuccinic acid (DMSA) have been investigated as treatments for lead intoxication but lack the experience of use of CaEDTA and PA, and DTPA requires a special FDA permit. Therapies to remove metal fragments from the gastrointestinal tract have been suggested but have not proven successful. Cathartics, such as sodium sulfate (Gluuber’s salts) or magnesium sulfate (epsom salts), have been recommended to precipitate lead in the gastrointestinal tract. Large lead object, such as fishing sinkers, or other large fragments, may be removed using a rigid or (in large species) flexible endoscope, once the patient is stabilized. Surgical removal is indicated only as a last resort.

Zinc

Zinc toxicity is similar to lead and the combination of lead and zinc toxicosis is not uncommon. Zinc toxicity differs in pathology and clinical signs in that the kidneys, liver, and pancreas are target organs for zinc. Often poisoned psittacines present with generalized weakness and no other signs. Tentative diagnosis may be made based on history and the presence of metal in the gastrointestinal tract on radiographs. Definitive diagnosis is made based on blood or tissue levels greater than 200 ?g/dL and 75 ?g/dL respectively, although clinical signs may not be noticed until levels are as high as 1000 ?g/dL. Samples should be submitted in plastic containers as the rubber stoppers may leach zinc from the sample giving a false low result. Treatment for zinc toxicosis is the same as for lead. In the author’s practice, zinc intoxication carries a poorer prognosis than lead.

Other metal toxicity

Iron and copper toxicity are not common in avian medicine.

Pesticides: organophosphates and carbamates

Pesticides seen most often in avian emergency and critical care include insecticides, and rodenticides. The most common insecticides are organophosphates including diazinon, dichlorvos, dieldrin, dursban, and malathion and carbamates (carbaryl). Intoxication generally results secondary to ingestion through contamination of food or water, although secondary poisoning of wild insectivorous species may occur. Pathology and clinical signs result from binding of the insecticide to and inhibition of aetylcholenesterase (AChE) and the resulting accumulation of acetylcholine (ACh) at ganglia and neuromuscular junctions. Organophosphate bonds are irreversible but carbamate bonds are slowly reversible. Signs include anorexia, weakness crop stasis, ataxia, muscular twitching, prolapsed nictitans, increased respiratory secretions, dyspnea, bradycardia and death. Tentative diagnosis is based on history of exposure, clinical signs and response to therapy. Bradycardia not responsive to atropine at 0.02 mg/kg given IV is suggestive, but not established in avian medicine. Definitive diagnosis is based on cholinesterase assay from blood, plasma, or serum, paired with an analogous subject.

Specific therapy includes atropine, for carbamate and organophosphate toxicity. Pralidoximechloride (2-Pam) is effective early in organophosphate toxicity and should be given in cases that are presented soon after ingestion and continued providing that there is a positive response. 2-Pam is contraindicated in carbamate toxicity and has been reported to be toxic in raptors.
Anticoagulant rodenticides

First generation (warfarin) and second generation (brodifacoum and bromadoline) rodenticide intoxication or suspected intoxication caused by both primary and secondary exposure (carnivorous birds) are not uncommon presentations. These agents are vitamin K antagonists that deplete and block the synthesis of prothrombin, accessory factors VII, IX, X. As noted earlier, extrinsic clotting factors are not important in avian patients, and low levels of factor VII may decrease the effects of these products. Clinical signs include depression, anorexia, feather follicle and subcutaneous hemorrhage, petechial hemorrhages of oral and cloacal mucosa and bleeding from nares. Many of these patients will present with no history of exposure and no specific symptoms. Once hemorrhage is noted the prognosis is grave.

Treatment involves Vitamin K supplementation and, in critical cases, fresh whole blood transfusions. Vitamin K1 is administered by injection until stable then given SQ, IM or PO daily33 or fed in the diet at a rate of 800 g/kg of food. IM administration has been reported to result in hematoma formation in dogs with clinical signs of coagulopathy. This problem has not been reported and may or may not result in birds. Supplementation of menadione (K3) is not effective in counteracting anticoagulants. Due to increased potency and slower metabolism (at least in mammals) of the second generation agents, it may be necessary to administer vitamin K for several weeks to control bleeding.

When they are very young

Vaccinations 

Kits (young ferrets) should be vaccinated for distemper at 8,* 12 and 16 weeks of age then at one year of age. Reactions to the licenced distemper vaccine are common. Discuss the benefits and risks of vaccination and observe your ferret in the veterinarian’s office for at least 20 minutes follow distemper vaccines given to ferrets over one year of age. Rabies vaccination should be given at 16 weeks and then annually.

Spay / Castration

We recommend spaying or castration at 6 months of age. This allows kits to develop their normal sexually influenced size and body characteristics.*

Descenting

The purpose of “descenting,” or removing the anal sacs, from a ferret is to keep them from “spraying” or “skunking,” that is spraying the contents of their anal sacs when frightened or excited. This procedure is unnecessary for most ferrets and should be reserved for those ferret that have proven to be a problem.*

*The great majority of ferrets we see today are from large farm operations (such as Marshall Farms). These kits have been spayed, castrated, descented, and have had a single distemper vaccination at 5 ½ to 6 ½ weeks of age. Because they are so young at the time they are vaccinated these ferrets still require the same number of vaccinations as other ferrets.

Annual examination and vaccination

It is very important to have your ferret examined on an annual basis. The importance increases with age. The majority of ferret diseases are treatable when detected early. Rabies vaccinations are repeated annually. We are working with laboratories to provide a test for the level of protection a ferret may have for distemper. If and when this test is available we may recommend that your ferret be tested and vaccinated only if it’s level of immunity is low. If you chose not to vaccinate your ferret for distemper after it is one year of age, do not neglect the annual examination.

Diet

Ferrets are consummate carnivores and require a diet high in animal source proteins and high in fats. We recommend that one of the following diets be fed: Mazuri (Purina Mills) Ferret formula, Totally Ferret, Bandit Brand (Marshall Farms) Ferret food, Sheppard and Green ferret food, Science Diet Kitten formula, or Iams Kitten formula. Many of the lesser brands are inadequate or have a poor level of acceptance. Grocery store cat and kitten foods most often contain too little animal source proteins and or fats.

Supplements

Nutritional supplements such as Linatone, Ferritone, Fer-vite are well accepted and may be offered as occasional treats, rewards, or diversions from noxious experiences (such as nail trimming). No other dietary supplement is necessary or recommended. A variety of items may be used as treats or rewards for training, bribes or for good behavior. Many ferrets enjoy raisins. They may be fed as treats or rewards in limited numbers.

Caging

Most ferret owners chose to cage their friends during the hours that they are not home or awake to supervise their activities. A large all metal cage is recommended. They are easier to clean and deodorize than wooden cages. Multiple levels should be connected by long sloping ramps (steep ramps are dangerous, especially for older ferrets) or tubes. The cage should be easy to clean with easy access to all levels and removable shelves and floors. Food bowls should be heavy crocks or should be attached to the side of the cage. Water is most often supplied via a water bottle with a screw on lid (don’t use bottles with rubber stoppers as ferrets will chew and swallow the rubber).

Litter box / Litte

The litter box can be a source of medical problems as well as training frustrations. Clay kitty litter or clumping litter have proven to be a problem as they can cause upper respiratory irritation (dust), dry dirty coat (they roll in it), and airway obstructions (gets in nose and mouth). Corncob bedding is not recommended as it harbors mold, is not digestible and can be a source of intestinal impaction if swallowed. Pine and cedar shavings contain volatile pine oils and turpentines that cause upper respiratory irritation and have been shown to cause liver enzyme elevation and can cause respiratory tract and skin irritation in the human household members.

We recommend the use of paper bedding products. These products are absorbent, and inhibit bacterial growth. A few brand names are Care Fresh, Yesterday’s News and there are many more.

Care of the older ferret

Ferrets have an average life span of 5 to 7 years. Some “record breakers” may live as long as 10 years. Ferrets start to experience middle age problems as early as 3 years of age. With a good “geriatric program,” we have been able to prolong the quality and quantity of life in many pets.

More frequent checkups, every 6 months, are recommended for older ferrets. Ferrets develop disease rapidly, especially cancer, kidney and heart disease, and waiting an entire year between visits could prevent the early detection and management of these diseases. Starting at four years of age we recommend laboratory work be done. On a healthy animal a complete blood cell count and a fasting blood glucose as the minimum work-up. The pet should be fasted 2 to 3 hours prior to the blood tests being taken. This routine laboratory work should be done once a year. Additional laboratory work, a blood chemistry profile, and an x-ray, particularly if your pet is exhibiting signs of illness, may be recommended. Anesthesia may be necessary for the x-ray. We use isoflurane gas anesthesia on our ferret patients which is very safe and eliminates the stress the pet may feel with these procedures.

After the age of 7, diagnostic testing may have to be done every 6 months along with the bi-annual examination. These laboratory work-ups have been invaluable in detecting many disease early and thus facilitating early treatment.

Article by By Jeffrey R. Jenkins, D.V.M

Criteria that may be used to determine whether a patient is in pain are as follows:

• Would the inciting surgical lesion be painful in humans?
• Is the lesion damaging to disuse and to what degree?
• Does the bird show aversive response to the lesion?

Symptoms and signs may indicate pain including:

• Change in temperament (aggressive or passive)
• Appearance of being uncomfortable (unable to rest)
• Decrease in normal activity, especially grooming (often exhibited as fluffing, reluctance to perch)
• Anorexia, lameness, or dropped wing
• Guarding the back or splinting of the abdomen
• Biting or chewing at the painful site, sutures or bandage

Rolling or thrashing may be a sign of severe pain but must be differentiated from seizures.
Procedures that the author considers painful include:

• Burns
• Crushing trauma (especially those injuries involving long bones and large muscles masses)
• Beak trauma
• Abrasions or bruising of distal extremities, especially the scaled skin of the feet

Not obviously painful are lacerations of the feathered skin and some simple fractures. Pain may be alleviated in some cases by supportive environment or protective or supportive bandaging of the affective part.

Analgesics have been poorly studied in avian patients, especially psittacines. The author has had good results using flunixin(1) and butorphanol tartrate(2). Promise has been showed with initial work using buprenorphine hydrochloride(3).

All of these drugs are injectable and the patient should be hospitalized while they are being administered.

1. Banamine; Schering Corp., Kenilworth, NJ
2. Torbugesic; Fort Dodge Laboratories, Fort Dodge, IA
3. Buprenex; Rickitt & Colman, Hull England

Housing

When keeping a rabbit inside, a cage is still an essential need. Here the rabbit will find a private place to rest and call his own. It is also a place of safety for him when you leave your house. You should never leave a rabbit running loose in your house unattended. Because they are diggers and chewers, they can get into all sorts of trouble when unsupervised.

Portable pen-type cages are very popular due to the ease of cleaning and the ability to move them around. Whatever the setup you choose, remember that rabbits like to dig and chew so place the cage in a rabbit-proof area of your home. Buying a large piece of linoleum to use under the cage can eliminate digging behavior and makes for easy cleaning. As long as your bunny has access to his litter box, cleaning his cage area should not be a chore.

Rabbits also enjoy having a box to sleep and hide in as well as toys to play with. Some rabbits like tossing cardboard rolls, plastic cat toys, and even plastic soda bottles around. Each bunny is different so try different toys.

Litter Box

You should change the litter box 2-3 times a week, depending on the number of rabbits you keep. A very good litter out on the market is called Carefresh. It is a paper-based litter and very soft and absorbent. Carefresh is recommended over using regular cat litter as it is easily digested if the rabbit happens to eat it. A clean litter box is essential and some rabbits have been known to quit using the box if it is not cleaned regularly. Adding a handful of hay to the top of the litter in the litter box improves its use by many rabbits.

Feeding

There are many false ideas about just what a rabbit should be fed. The diet we recommend here at our hospital is an unlimited quantity of fresh hay, and one cup of fresh leafy green vegetables per 5 pounds body weight .  A very small amount of rabbit pellets (no more than 2-4 tablespoons per day per rabbit). The hay is essential because it is high in fiber and keeps the bunny’s digestive tract moving. Timothy, oat, sweet grass, and meadow grass are all very good and, depending on the time of year, some if not all will be available. Alfalfa (which is not a grass hay) is too high in protein for most rabbits.  Rabbits, like people, have different tastes and your bunny will let you know which type of hay he enjoys.

Diseases

The most common problems we are presented with here at our hospital include lack of appetite, tooth problems, parasites, abscesses, E. cuniculi, and Pasturella.

External parasites usually present themselves on the hair coat of your pet. If you notice your bunny’s fur contains dandruff-like flakes, he may have fur mites. Your vet will recommend a skin test to rule out these parasites but if the mites are present, a 2 dose treatment of medication given 2 weeks apart should alleviate this problem. Fleas can also be a problem for rabbits. By using Advantage  these pests can be kept in check.

By examining your pet’s ears on a regular basis, you can catch any signs of ear mites. These parasites live down in the ear canal of your rabbit. A dark, crusty exudat in the ear indicates this parasite. Again, your vet will use the microscope to check for signs of this bug and treat it accordingly.

Lack of appetite can be a red flag to rabbit owners. Rabbits love to eat so any time their eating habits change, pay close attention. Drooling can indicate tooth problems so have your pet’s teeth checked regularly. In some cases when Caught early, trimming of the molars will help the bunny eat again. If the teeth are not wearing evenly, they can grow points that dig into the rabbit’s cheeks and tongue, making eating very painful.

Rabbits can also have digestive tract problems. Impactions caused by rug fibers or hairballs can be very serious. If your bunny stops eating or his droppings change in size, you should call your vet immediately.

Abscesses are another rabbit health problem. The most common places they can be found are on the jaw area (usually in association with a tooth problem), the legs or feet, or other areas on the body. Because rabbit pus is very thick, abscesses can be very difficult to cure. A relatively new procedure that has been found to be quite successful involves cleaning of the abscess and implanting antibiotic-impregnated beads into the wound. These beads stay inside the abscess and the antibiotics are then released over time.

E. cuniculi is a disease caused by a protozoan known as Encephalitazoon cuniculi, or E. cuniculi for short. The symptoms can include depression, head tilt, and sometimes rear leg paralysis. A blood test can be sent out for diagnosing this disease but as of yet, there is no know n treatment.

Pasturella is a bacterial disease caused bu the bacteria Pasturella multocida.  It most often presents as upper respiratory symptoms in rabbits including sneezing and nasal discharge. In advanced cases, the rabbits have matted front legs due to rubbing their noses. If you notice your bunny having any nasal discharge at all, a trip to the vet is a must. Your vet can take a blood sample for testing and antibiotics can be used to help control the symptoms. Pasturella is hard to cure but can be controlled but new antibiotics have made great strides in this area.

Article by By Shelly Meszaros

Housing

House your hedgehog in a large glass or plastic terrarium, or a tub type guinea pig cage. Choose a cage with smooth walls that are high enough to prevent the animal from climbing out. Wire bottomed cages should be avoided as they allow their feet and legs to slip through spaces between wires, causing injury. The cage must have ample floor space to encourage movement and prevent obesity in your little friend. Keep the cage in a warm room. A good range of temperature for a hedgehog is 72-85 degrees Fahrenheit. Use a heater, such as a stick on “under tank heater” available in the reptile department of most pet shops, on the cage in cool climates and cold months.  Cleaning the enclosure on a weekly basis helps control unwanted odors, making it a good pet to house indoors.

Accessories

Cage bedding should be nontoxic, absorbent, and relatively dust free. Avoid cedar or pine shavings as they cause respiratory problems in hedgehogs. Shredded paper works well and is cost efficient. Our hospital recommends Carefresh, a paper bedding that is soft, absorbent, and easy to clean. Hedgehogs need a shelter, or a hide box in their cage. Offering a PVC pipe, plastic pot on its side, a tissue or shoe box, or another form of shelter, will give your hedgehog a place of security and a place to sleep.

Hedgehogs require exercise to satisfy their desire to forage and to avoid obesity. This is easily achieved due to their curious and inquisitive nature. Hedgehogs love to push, chew, and manipulate toys, such as hard plastic balls, and paper towel rolls. An exercise wheel made for a hedgehog or chinchilla will be used. Again, be sure it has a solid walking surface so feet won’t get caught in any holes.

Feeding

Hedgehogs are classified as insectivorous (insect eaters) but appear to be very opportunistic eaters in the wild eating a wide variety of insects, mollusks (worms and snails) small animals and vegetation, fruits. and greens.  Using this information, commercial hedgehog diets have been created to adjust to their dietary needs in captivity. These diets may contain chitin, a material found in the exoskeleton of insects, that some feel is required in the hedgehog diet. If a commercial hedgehog diet is unavailable, it can be substituted with a high quality, high protein/low fat cat food. This can be offered with small amounts of mixed fruits and vegetables. As a treat, hedgehogs will go “hog wild” for live insects, like crickets, mealworms, or earthworms.If your hedgehog becomes overweight, limit the quantity of food and treats given, and increase exercise.

Handling

The quills on the hedgehog are stiff and sharp to the touch. The quills provide protection when the animal rolls up in a tight ball. When attempting to handle your pet, approach it slowly and quietly. Avoid the quills by lifting the animal from the underneath, where the fur is soft, and hold your pet cupped in both holds. Handle your pet every day for a few minutes and it will become socialized and  easier to handle.

Common Problems

Mites

Mites are an external parasite that feed off your hedgehog and burrow in the skin at the base of the spines. Mites can be extremely debilitating on your hedge if they go untreated. You will probably notice loss of quills, or dry patches of skin. Ask your vet to perform a skin scraping to determine if there are any signs of mites on your hedgehog.

Respiratory Infection

Respiratory infections are common and often associated with a too cold environment or stress. Discharge will be seen on the face or wrists of the front legs and respiration may sound wheezy or crackly.  Respiratory infections in hedgehogs are life threatening and medical attention should be sought as soon as possible.  Treatment consists of antibiotics and supportive care and correcting the underlying environmental cause.

Diarrhea

There are several causes of diarrhea in hedgehogs ranging from dietary indiscretion to bacterial, viral and parasitic infections.  Dehydration associated with diarrhea is a major concern with these small patients.  Soft stool that lasts more than a day or diarrhea associated with other signs that your hedgehog is sick (not eating, inactivity or other change in behavior) should be brought to your veterinarian immediately.

Hibernation

Unlike wild hedgehogs from cooler climates, the pet hedgehog should not hibernate.  Cold temperatures will lead to hibernation behavior that all too often ends with pneumonia or other disease problems.

article by Christine Hancock

As adults, these reptiles are generally ground or rock dwellers, and dig deep tunnels in the wild. Long hot days and cold nights are spent these tunnels. As young animals, these reptiles like to climb to  bask on  branches, fence posts, and large rocks.

Diet

Bearded dragons plant products and insects. Juvenile Bearded Dragons should be fed crickets, silk worms, mealworms, wax worms and other various insects at least 3-4 times weekly. Most juvenile lizards favor insects over plant matter. Adult diets include 60-75% of leafy greens, such as mustard greens, collard greens, kale, endive, and spinach. Twenty-five to 40 percent of the plant diet consists of frozen vegetables (peas, carrots, green beans, lima beans), grated carrots, squash, or other such vegetables. Adults should be offered fresh plant matter daily and live foods every 7-10 days.

Uromastyx are primarily herbivorous.  They should be fed a diet of cracked legumes (split peas, lentils), other grains and dark leafy greens (kale, mustard greens, dandelion greens, endive, etc.). One advantage of keeping Uromastyx is that they do not need to be fed insect food.

Bearded dragons and uromastyx obtain most of their water intake through the plant products they obtain. It is a good idea to mist them off daily, several times a day for juvenile’s, and soak them weekly. To soak these reptiles, place them in a shallow bowl of lukewarm water for about ten minutes. If you decide to leave a water bowl in the lizard’s cage, be sure to clean it well every few days to prevent bacterial and fungal growth.

Housing

Enclosures come in all shapes and sizes, being as unique as the people who design them. They range from aquariums with screen tops, custom wood cages, cabinets with glass sliding doors, or large box type cages. When selecting a cage it is important to keep the full-grown animal in mind. The length of the enclosure should be four times the length of the reptile, with the width of the enclosure measuring twice the length of the animal. Acceptable substrates include: sand, or pea gravel, artificial grass, outdoor carpet, and linoleum. Juvenile bearded dragons and uromastyx should be kept on a substrate that is large enough, so the animal won’t ingest it. Adult reptiles can be kept on sand, however, it is not recommended to keep juveniles on sand.

Some sort of “hide box” shelter should be provided to decrease stress and provide protection from heat and light. Cork bark, wood or rocks provide an excellent source of shelter. Rocks can be cemented together to provide crawl spaces. Take notice to the positioning of shelters and other objects in the enclosure to prevent them from collapsing on your reptile.

Temperature

The bearded dragon and uromastyx should be provided with a day time air temperature in the upper 80s, and a night time temperature to drop tin the upper 70s. Bearded dragons should have a basking sight where the temperature is allowed to reach 110-115 degrees, uromastyx as high as 125 degrees, which should be available for 12-14 hours of the day, and turned off at night. The best way to achieve these temperatures is with a heat lamp placed outside the cage to prevent burns. It is a good idea to keep the basking area at one end of the enclosure to provide a temperature gradient and allow the lizard to thermoregulate. We have found that the best way to provide these temperatures is to use a heat light with a wattage greater than what is needed to achieve the temperatures desired then dim the light with a lamp dimmer (available at most hardware store) to adjust the brightness of the light and hence the temperature.  Timers work well to adjust the  hours of day and night light, and are also commonly sold at hardware stores. In addition to heat, a source of UV-B must be provided.  New UV fluorescent lights, such as ReptiSun 8.0 and 10.0 manufactured by ZooMed provide abundant light in the UV-B spectrum without producing dangerous amounts of UV-A.  When conditions allow, these species should be exposed to 6-12 hours of natural sunlight a week in a screen enclosure. Under the tank heaters are available and are commonly used to provide increased night time and hide box heat, however, please use caution and monitor temperatures carefully.  Again, dimmers may be used to adjust temperatures. If under tank heaters malfunction, it could cause extreme burns to your animal that could potentially be fatal.

Common Problems

Internal Parasites

Fecal exams should be performed  on newly acquired reptiles and repeated annually. A fresh fecal, preserved in the refrigerator for no more than 24 hours, should be submitted to your veterinarian for a microscopic parasite exam. A parasite is an organism that lives in or on another organism. Internal parasites are more common and can be difficult to diagnose. Internal parasites produce microscopic eggs which pass through the reptile in their feces. If your veterinarian has a negative finding, test again. A single  negative finding  does not necessarily mean your reptile is free of parasites. If fecal samples come back negative two or more times, it is safe to assume your reptile is parasite free. However, if your reptile does have parasites, which many of them do, they can be treated. A veterinarian exam is necessary for proper treatment of your reptile.

External Parasites

Mites, blood sucking arachnids related to spiders, may appear black, red or orange, or old dried blood in color. They can be found roaming the body, or tucked under edges of scales around the eyes, ears, or tympanic membranes. Mites are a common external parasite, and in most cases are microscopic or at the limit that may be seen without magnification. Mites can be difficult to treat, since they can live in your reptile’s environment for long periods of time. If your reptile has external parasites, you will need to treat both your reptile, and it’s environment. Most “miracle treatments” sold in pet stores are generally ineffective. The best way to treat your reptile is with warm soap and water soaks. The animal’s environment must be thoroughly cleaned and sterilized. To sterilize the cage, remove and change substrate, bake any wood items in the oven, boil rocks, and bleach enclosure and any food and water bowls. Consult a competent reptile veterinarian before using insecticides on your animals.

Organ Failure

Aged reptiles may eventually suffer from kidney, liver or heart failure. Some signs to look for are lack of appetite, increased thirst, weight loss, lack of producing feces, lethargy, or muscle twitches or loss of strength. If caught early enough, treatments would consist of a better diet, and change of environment. Most cases of kidney failure, by the time they are caught, can be fatal.

article by By Christine Hancock

“Why a rat?” is one of the most common questions pet owners are asked when showing off their pets. Some of the answers include the fact that rats are highly intelligent, loving and very social pets. They enjoy being with “their people” as well as with other rats. Many owners care for 2-3 rats at a time and if bought at a young age, the rats learn to live happily with one another. Rats make wonderful pets and with proper care, they can live a long, full life.

Housing 

Rats should have a large enough cage to run around in. When purchasing a wire cage,remember the rule the bigger, the better and the happier your pet will be. If using an aquarium, 20 gallons should be the minimum but if your pet will be staying in his cage most of the time , a larger size is a must
Your pet will enjoy having a wheel, toys, a house to sleep in, branches to climb on, etc. so keep these things in mind when cage shopping for your friend.

Bedding

Rats enjoy having fresh litter to play in. One of the best beddings available is called Carefresh. It is a newspaper-based bedding and is very soft and absorbent. Pine and cedar shavings are not recommended because, although they smell nice to humans, they contain toxins that may cause upper respiratory infections in rodents. Corn cob litter is also available and works well, but some rats tend to eat it. You should keep your pet’s cage as clean as possible. Depending on the number of rats you own, cleaning the cage 1-2 times a week should be sufficient. A good rule of thumb on this subject: if you can smell the cage when you walk into the room, its time to clean it.

Feeding

Rodent or rat blocks are a complete diet formulated for your little friend. By feeding fresh fruits and vegetables along with the rodent blocks, your pet should enjoy a long, healthy life. Occasional treats can be fed but remember, an overweight pet is an unhealthy pet and more prone to disease and poor health.

Diseases

The three most common problems we are presented with here at our hospital are upper respiratory disease, hair loss, and tumors. Upper respiratory in rats is most often caused by the bacteria, Mycoplasma pulmonis. Mycoplasma is very contagious from rat to rat and is incurable. The symptoms include sneezing and runny eyes and nose and if left untreated, can progress into loss of appetite, rough hair coat, and difficulty breathing. Although this disease is not curable, treatment with antibiotics helps alleviate the symptoms and makes the pet much more comfortable.
Hair loss is usually accompanied by excessive scratching leading to scabs and bald spots on your pet. If these symptoms occur, your vet will probably suggest a skin scraping to rule out fur mites. If fur mites are present, a two dose treatment of medication given two weeks apart usually takes care of the problem.

Tumors are a very common occurrence in the 2-2 ½ year old rat. There are two types of tumors: malignant (cancerous) or benign (non-cancerous). The most common tumor in rats are benign mammary tumors and usually grow in the armpit or groin area , although they can appear in other areas of the body as well. Tumors can successfully be removed but the smaller the tumor size, the easier the job for the doctor and your pet. Removal of a tumor does not guaranteed another one won’t crop up down the road but it does give your pet a better quality of life.
Although their lifespan is relatively short (2 ½-4 years), rats are one of the most popular pets around. Once you have shared your house with a rat, it seems your home is never complete without one.

article by Shelly Meszaro

Indoor Housing

A juvenile iguana can reside in a 30-50 gallon aquarium, however, their rapid growth will cause them to outgrow this enclosure within a few months. Enclosures come in many different sizes, shapes, and styles and are made out of wood, glass, or plexiglass. The substrate should be easy to clean to help you out. Newspaper works well and is most cost efficient, however, artificial grass, indoor-outdoor carpeting, or linoleum are excellent choices as well. Avoid sand, soil, and bark, as these substrates can lead to obstruction or impaction if your pet ingests them. Shallow food and water dishes should be provided, and thoroughly cleaned and disinfected at least twice a week. It is also important to provide your iguana with climbing materials such as branches, pieces of bark, rocks, broad limbs, or drift wood.

Water

Iguanas need water to survive and should have it readily available. Iguanas obtain most of their water intake through the plant matter they consume, however, some iguanas enjoy drinking out of water dishes, or lapping water off leaves or wood in the cage. Misting your iguana and it’s environment daily will help keep it hydrated and provide it water droplets to drink. Some iguanas who are provided water dishes may train themselves to eliminate in their water. Their dishes need to be regularly and thoroughly cleaned and disinfected to prevent internal bacterial infections.

Bathing your iguana is another good way for your friend to obtain water, and is a good habit to get your lizard use to. Bathing should be offered in shallow, lukewarm water, 2-3 times weekly. Always supervise your iguana to prevent any accidents. Remember, not all iguanas enjoy bath time. Some will swim around and enjoy it, others will panic.

Outdoor Sunlight

Iguanas need to be provided with exposure to natural sunlight for at least 5-10 hours per week. When possible, iguanas should spend daylight hours outside in a sunny location. When choosing an outdoor cage for your pet, a couple of things should be kept in mind. No wild animals, or cats or dogs, should be able to break into the cage, and your pet should not be able to escape. A wire mesh cage with a sturdy frame works well. Glass should be avoided at all costs as the glass can develop lethal temperatures even on cool days. Of course, don’t forget to provide food and water to your little friend in it’s outdoor enclosure.

Handling

Iguanas need frequent and regular handling to help tame them. Iguanas can learn to show affection to those who own them and handle them frequently. Juveniles should be held at least 2-3 times daily for approximately fifteen minutes. Stroke the back and neck while holding, and get your iguana accustomed to picking them up and handling them. IGUANAS CAN BE TERRITORIAL AND AGGRESSIVE BY NATURE. ALWAYS USE EXTREME CAUTION WHEN HANDLING ANY IGUANA.

Feeding

Iguanas are herbivores and should only be offered a variety of fruits and vegetables. There is ample information available that states iguanas should be fed protein, however, protein in the diet can lead to kidney failure, metabolic bone disease, and eventually death if fed over the years. The bulk of the diet should be compromised of dark, leafy green vegetables, such as, collard greens, mustard greens, parsley, dandelion greens, escarole, spinach, and kale. Iceberg lettuce should be avoided as it offers no nutritional value and iguanas can become hooked on it, refusing to eat other foods. Other vegetables that are good to offer include green beans, green peppers, frozen mixed vegetables, squash, and fruits, such as, bananas, apples, mangos, papaya. Iguanas should be fed on a daily basis, after their lights have been turned on and the iguana has had a chance to warm up.

Lighting and Heating

Temperature plays an important role to your iguana’s long term and overall health. Iguanas are cold blooded and do not possess the ability to regulate internal temperatures, so they rely on their environment. Iguanas regulate their body temperature by basking in temperatures above 85 degrees, sometimes as high as 100 degrees Fahrenheit. Daytime temperatures should range between 85-95 degrees with a basking point of 110-115 degrees. Nighttime temperatures should not drop below 70-75 degrees. Iguanas should be provided fourteen hours of daylight, and ten hours of night light.

So how do I achieve these heat requirements? There are many products on the market today. The simplest is a basking light. A 60-100 watt incandescent bulb is a radiant source of heat, and is adequate since they are basking animals. An Ultraviolet light, such as Vita-Lite or Duro-Test, available at your local pet store, helps provide heat and aids in the conversion of vitamin D. A UVB fluorescent tube light can also be provided. Heat pads, hot rocks, and heating tape are sold at most pet shops, however, observe extreme caution when using these products. These products have potential to malfunction, causing extreme burns to your iguana, that can potentially prove fatal. Also, these products don’t provide the adequate heat necessary for the required temperature for your iguana.

Common Problems

Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD)

Metabolic bone disease describes most disorders that cause a weakening of the bones or impaired functioning of the body’s organs. It is caused by an imbalance of calcium, phosphorous, and vitamin D3. Proper diet and temperature ranges will help prevent MBD. Symptoms of this disease include swelling of the lower jaw, curvature in the tail or back (‘S’ shaped), the lower jaw may be smaller than the upper jaw, and radiographs will show thin, brittle, curved bone structure. Metabolic bone disease is best avoided with proper diet and correct temperature ranges in the iguanas environment

Kidney Failure

Kidney disease is common in captive iguanas due to poor diet and lack of water or humidity. External signs are anorexia, weight loss, swollen abdomen, dehydration, loss of muscle tone, and eventually lack of elimination. However, your iguana may not show any signs, and act healthy even two weeks before kidney disease turns fatal. Your veterinarian can check blood levels of the phosphorous and calcium in your iguana to try to prevent kidney failure. If caught early enough, treatment would consist of diet and environment improvements. Fed properly on a plant-based diet, access to water and frequent misting helps prevent kidney failure.

Parasites

Iguanas are susceptible to both internal and external parasites. A parasite is an organism that lives in or on another organism. Internal parasites are more difficult to diagnose. They produce microscopic eggs which pass through your iguanas feces. Fecal exams should be performed routinely for newly acquired reptiles. The specimen provided should be fresh, within 24 hours, and needs to be refrigerated to prevent fecal matter from drying out. A negative finding on a fecal exam means, NO PARASITES DETECTED IN THE SAMPLE SUBMITTED. It does not necessarily mean your reptile is free of parasites. It is a good idea to test a few times with negative results in order to ensure your iguana is without parasites.

External Parasites

Mites are blood sucking organisms that may be bright red, black or dried blood in color. Generally they can be found roaming the body, tucked under the edges of scale around the eyes, ears, or tympanic membrane. Mites are microscopically small in most cases and can be difficult to get rid of. Mite treatments sold at pet shops are generally ineffective. There is no easy way to rid mites of your reptile and its environment. The environment and reptile both must be thoroughly treated. Remove all substrate and treat all items in the enclosure. Boil rocks, bake wood, and bleach bowls and the cage. The reptile must be soaked in warm water with mild soap. Any further problems should be reported to your veterinarian.

article by  By Christine Hancock